Travel review: A guide to five day’s golfing in Scotland

And this month Scotland will again host the Open Championship when it is played at Troon — the 10th time the course in South Ayrshire will host the event.

Having never previously played any golf in Scotland, myself and two colleagues embarked on a five-day trip to play at some of the world’s most renowned and historic courses.

Sunday

It’s an early start, with an alarm call at 5.30am before making the short journey to Belfast port to board the 7am Stena Line ferry to Cairnryan.

Fortunately, I had upgraded to Stena Plus — which not only got me priority boarding and disembarkation, but I could also take advantage of the Stena Plus lounge.

There I had my choice of comfortable seats by the window and could enjoy a range of cold and hot drinks, pastries, fruit, yoghurts and cakes. For an extra charge, you also have the option of a cooked breakfast.

With a journey time of two hours and 20 minutes, it’s the ideal way to relax before your onward journey.

Once docked at Cairnryan, I then drove 45 minutes up the east coast to arrive at our first golf destination of the week, Trump Turnberry.

Turnberry has hosted the Open four times — most famously in 2009 when, at the age of 59, Tom Watson only had to par the last hole to win, but he finished with a bogey and lost in a play-off to Stewart Cink.

Even though we arrived at the hotel at 11am, we were able to check-in immediately. The service from all the hotel staff was impeccable and nothing was too much trouble.

We stayed in two deluxe rooms, a king and a twin. No expense is spared: mahogany beds, silk wallpaper and wool carpets in the bedroom, with marble and gold in the en suite bathroom. There’s a 65-inch television with which you can book restaurants and spa appointments via a QR code.

After checking in, we got the shuttle bus down to the Duel in the Sun clubhouse with our golf clubs and enjoyed a leisurely lunch before hitting the driving range.

With gusts of up to 50mph, playing the Ailsa course was testing to say the least, but we thoroughly enjoyed it and the rain stayed away.

The course features a number of amazing views, with the Isle of Arran, Ailsa Craig and the unmistakable Turnberry Lighthouse among the notable scenery.

Holes 4 to 11 along the sea are spectacular, particularly the signature ninth hole — a par 3 played towards the lighthouse; and the 10th hole, a par 5 with the waves crashing in on your left-hand side.

But make sure you stop at the Halfway House in the lighthouse, where you can enjoy a coffee or something a little stronger. Indeed, if you’re feeling flush you can even book a stay in the lighthouse!

The finishing holes are also memorable at the Ailsa, with the 16th played over a burn, 17th through the dunes and 18th back to the clubhouse with the magnificent hotel in the backdrop.

For dinner you can either eat in the golf clubhouse or go back to the hotel and eat in its signature restaurant, the 1906. Try and book a window seat to enjoy panoramic views over the golf courses.

Monday

We got up at 7.30am to take advantage of the excellent spa facilities at the hotel — sauna, steam room, swimming pool and jacuzzi — before enjoying a hearty Scottish breakfast.

We then played the second course at Turnberry, King Robert the Bruce. It’s certainly more forgiving than the Ailsa, with wider fairways — but if you’re too wild, there are even more gorse bushes to collect your ball. Again, holes 8 to 11 enjoy spectacular views of Turnberry’s stunning coastline and the lighthouse.

After bidding farewell to Turnberry, we made the 30-minute drive to Prestwick where our base for Monday night was the Old Loans Inn — particularly popular with golfers with its proximity to several courses.

Although our stay was brief, we enjoyed a fantastic dinner of haggis pakoras and sizzling fajitas — and the service was second to none. Bedrooms were compact but offered all we needed.

Tuesday

After a delicious cooked breakfast, we headed for Prestwick Golf Club (prestwickgc.co.uk). Prestwick hosted the first 12 Open Championships, and 24 in total, though it has not welcomed the event for almost 100 years.

It’s worth arriving early to have a look around the clubhouse, which is steeped in history.

With another windy day the course presented a real challenge, but we really enjoyed it. The opening five holes are spectacular and quirky — from the first hole alongside the railway track and the par 5 third, where a wall awaits any wayward shots, to the blind par 3 fifth where you hit over a huge mound (think of the fifth hole at Lahinch). Coming back, the 14th and 18th were driveable with the wind behind, and the 17th is another memorable hole with another blind second shot.

As the weather deteriorated over the last couple of holes, a Bloody Mary soup in the clubhouse afterwards fairly hit the spot and we were on our way again — this time a two-hour, 15-minute drive across the country to the east coast and St Andrews.

Our base for two nights was Ailim House garden cottages, situated in a private cul-de-sac but right in the middle of town and only a minute’s walk from the Old Course.

We stayed in Cypress Cottage — luxury accommodation with all mod cons, including a 55-inch Apple TV.

There’s parking right outside and also a hot tub and pool room available. It’s the ideal location for golfers, and Ilya and Yufei were the perfect hosts.

After a quick pizza, we took a leisurely walk around St Andrews to get our bearings. It was an early night, with 36 holes to be played the following day.

Wednesday

Alarm at 6.15am. Two-minute drive over to the Old Links clubhouse for our first round at the Jubilee course (standrews.com). We were able to get a coffee and bacon roll in the clubhouse before we teed off at 7.04am.

We were the first group out, and with the weather set fair we flew round in three-and-a-half hours. With no wind, we all played well. If you avoid the bunkers, a good score is very possible. Greens were immaculate and the course was in great condition. I’d recommend the Blue tees course, which is just over 6,300 yards — it’s certainly one that all standards of golfers will enjoy.

We were due to play the Castle course that afternoon, but, having had six weeks of wet weather, it was unfortunately closed. However, St Andrews was able to make alternative arrangements for us to play the New course at 12.56pm. Following a quick brunch, we ventured out again.

Like the Jubilee, the New course is fairly flat, but I thought it was a better test and was set up really well. As expected, all the courses at St Andrews were extremely busy so it was a slow round in the afternoon, but that didn’t detract from our enjoyment.

After a quick shower and change, we made our way to the famous Old Course Hotel for dinner in the Road Hole Restaurant (oldcoursehotel.co.uk).

It’s a luxury five-star property with 175 bedrooms, including 34 suites, and sits alongside the 17th hole of the Old Course.

Following a multi-million-pound renovation, guests can look forward to an upgraded Jigger Inn pub adjacent to the hotel as well as a new outdoor space for drinks and snacks overlooking the golf course.

Irishman Coalin Finn is the resort’s new executive chef and I’d highly recommend a visit to the Road Hole Restaurant, where the service and food deserve Michelin recognition.

For something a little more relaxed, the Swilcan Loft restaurant specialises in grazing plates and light bites and also enjoys spectacular views over the Old Course.

Thursday

Our final day’s golfing, and it was a 20-minute drive to Dumbarnie Links (dumbarnielinks.com) — a course that only opened in July 2020, but feels like it has been there for years.

The modern-style clubhouse with glass frontage offers superb views of the course. Practice facilities are excellent and it’s a short walk to the first tee, where the starter greets you with a goodie bag and a ‘wee dram’ of whisky before you start your round!

Dumbarnie is what I think of when it comes to links golf, playing through the dunes with several elevated tees — indeed, 14 of the holes have views of the Firth of Forth.

The course opened only a week before our visit (it is closed during the winter) and was in immaculate condition.

The greens were the quickest we played on all week, and we all agreed that it was already one of our favourite links courses in Scotland and Ireland. It was a memorable day to finish a memorable week’s golfing.

Considering it is right on our doorstep, I’d highly recommend a visit to Scotland to play golf. We received a warm welcome at every club we visited and it’s only a short ferry trip away.

Factfile

Chris travelled to Scotland with Stena Line. The ferry from Belfast to Cairnryan is from £139 for a single car and driver, and to upgrade to Stena Plus costs from £25 per person. There are up to six sailings per day each way. Visit www.stenaline.co.uk

At Turnberry, Chris stayed in a Deluxe King room without ocean view, which starts from £749 per night; a Deluxe King with an ocean view costs from £949 per night. For details, visit www.trumphotels.com.

In Prestwick he stayed at Old Loans Inn, where prices start from £65pp based on two people sharing. For details, visit www.oldloansinn.co.uk

He stayed at Ailim House in St Andrews, which has two luxurious serviced cottages set in a private garden in the very centre of St Andrews. It is five-star rated and was a Thistle Award finalist for Central and East Scotland in 2023. Each cottage can accommodate up to four guests (ideal for golfers) and rates are from £300 per night in mid-season. For more details and to book, visit www.harenest.com